Park Corner Brasserie, London Hilton on Park Lane

Who knew it? The world’s favourite cocktail has not been around since time immemorial. The Piña Colada was not invented on the eighth day as our creator relaxed after an intense week’s work but actually by one Ramón ‘Monchito’ Marrero, a barman at the Caribe Hilton, Puerto Rico. His goal was to concoct a libation which reflected the exoticism of the hotel and its location. After three months of experimentation, he landed upon the rum, coconut cream and pineapple juice which was immortalised by Del Boy in Only Fools and Horses but remains a global taste-tickling, thirst quencher. It was 50 years since Ramón changed the world in this small but not inconsequential way and the London Hilton on Park Lane is, quite rightly, celebrating. It held a competition between any of its barmen who cared to enter, to riff on the Piña Colada, come up with a contemporary variation on the classic.

Refurbished close to a year ago, the hotel reception is a beguiling mixture of straight edges and soft curves, of gloss and matt, gold lamp shades and marble flooring, of caramel and darker toffee. The bar curves in a cranny on the left, past the elongated mobile made up of vacillating gold leaves. It continues with the same slick fundamentals but a more subdued and atmospheric lighting and plays sultry disco music. We opt for two of the three competition-winning cocktails. Although it came 2nd, the Vamos is the more intriguing and was invented by Daichi Tanaka of Conrad Tokyo. It’s a short, intense cocktail, is garnished with absinthe spray but defined by its Nigori cloudy sake. The sake provides a subtle aftertaste which is almost overpowered by the other ingredients but not quite. It’s a quietly engaging but ultimately captivating invention. The prize winner, the Piña Natura, was conceived of by the Park Lane’s very own Matteo Gianuzzi and uses zero waste techniques. It’s similar to its inspiration but with fresh lime juice, it tastes purer, fresher and thus more refreshing.

The restaurant is a hop, skip or stumble away. We vamoose there. Its interior is slick and sharp and fleckled surfaces refract pools of ceiling light. There’s a main dining room and an offshoot to the left. The floor resembles a black and white Kazimir Malevich abstraction and an open kitchen sides the space. A long, lime-green banquette opposite the kitchen provides a friendly welcome. We sit at a bay table which overlooks both the side street outside and the whole of the restaurant inside, depending on which way you face. We start and continue our meal with Triennes Rosé which bubbles but isn’t necessarily a sparkling. The bubbles are subdued, the taste is fruity, and the overall sensation is crisp and refreshing.

Both starters pack a tasty punch. Although the chunks of slow-cooked pork belly originate from the South Downs, their smoky burst reminds me of old-school Texan BBQs which often cook their meat on mesquite wood. The three chunks are generous, hearty and succulent and each mouthful brims with fatty goodness. Dollops of apple purée and a tightly wound helping of coleslaw lighten the dish whilst a sprinkling of untamed rice crispies provide it with unexpected playfulness. At some point we wonder if the starters are colour-coordinated with the narrow mustard table cloth which sends a bright and charismatic dash across our table. Not only does it complement (almost match) the apple purée but also the golden chargrilled exterior of the hand-dived Orkney scallops and the skinned half fruits which might be apricots. Cuts of pear mix with apple and celeriac purée and a hint of coriander to provide the sizeable, succulent, sweet scallops with appealing flavours.

The summer is close to an end but it hasn’t exactly been a sunny one so the lamb rump doesn’t seem like such an off-piste, off-menu idea, even when served up as a deconstructed casserole. Presented on a bean stew with generous tomato saucing for overall Autumnal nostalgia or anticipation, the lamb is cooked separately and is exactly how you’d want it to be; medium rare with fat which is variously charred and niblet sized in portions. Stems of tender broccoli add to the overall texture, taste and colouring.

The Cornish Dover sole is less involved but just as delectable. It comes on the bone but is deboned at the table by our Maitre D, Roberta, from Italy. Its two sides are presented in two halves and a plentiful butter and caper sauce is poured in situ to provide the sole with its final swim. The fish meat is melt-in-the-mouth sublime and served with a side of ratte potatoes which enable the diner to swipe up any last streaks of butter sauce.

Roberta does a fantastic job recommending her favourite dishes, most of which we order and Khanyisa from Johannesburg is our friendly waiter who’s eaten a bowl of bonhomie and smiles for dinner and for whom nothing is too much trouble. She swears by the salted caramel and chocolate soufflé for two, and the baked vanilla cheesecake. We don’t want to upset either so order both.

Both are good but the salted caramel and chocolate soufflé is outstanding. It’s light and breezy and fluffy and can only be compared to eating caramel-flavoured, chocolate-infused clouds. Or air. It comes with a large pot of caramel sauce and two scoops of caramel ice cream, each sparkling with edible gold foil. If you like eating your chocolate with caramel and more caramel or perhaps more accurately your caramel with caramel and even more caramel, this is the dish for you.

Treat yourself: order one for yourself and don’t share it. The cheesecake is presented with similar gold foil, this time scrunched for a nugget-like effect. The cheesecake is thick, the biscuit layer, thin. Wherever you dip your spoon, different flavours merge. Raspberry sorbet on a wafer, pickled blackberries, cherry compote, even a handful of basil leaves surround the cake and all make their mark on a thoroughly enjoyable gourmet evening.

The London Hilton on Park Lane is included in our guide to the best luxury hotels in London and Park Lane.