Bocconcino, Soho Review

Executive Chef Marco Corsica had already paid his dues at Daphne’s, Cecconi’s and spent nine years under Marco Pierre White’s tutelage before he opened Bocconcino in Mayfair almost a decade ago. Inspired by the restaurant of the same name in North Tuscany’s Forte dei Marmi, his goal was one of quality and sustainability – follow the seasons, use ingredients which are close at hand. His venture was a success and slowly but surely, Corsica’s plans for expansion are coming to fruition. Not only is he expanding with a Strand branch later this year but he surprised the restaurant world with a branch in Soho towards the end of last year.

Great Marlborough Street is one of those languid streets, too cool for school but never quite made it to university. Long and wide, Liberty wins as its most famous establishment, residing at the Regent Street end in all its Tudor-revivalism glory. Next to Liberty is the entrance to Carnaby Street and opposite, the Palladium’s stage entrance provides constant celebrity bustle. Bocconcino errs towards the emptier, opposite end, the periphery of Soho, not quite the heart of it, the West of Poland Street bit. It fills the space left by the much loved Manteca.

The interior design is spick and span, crisp and bright. Full of hard lines and varying textures, a long marble counter on the right serves as both a bar to eat at and a place to watch the kitchen from. The black and brown tiled floor is mottled with white geometric shapes. Six refrigerator cabinets proudly display hundreds of bottles of Italian wine on the right of the main dining space. Nine or so lanterns hang from its ceiling like iridescent crowns. All in all, the place glows an earthy, orange brown, as if it just returned from a sunbathing session by the Ligurian Sea.

Certainly, the cocktail list seeks to illustrate Italy’s natural beauty with poetic names such as Sardinian Sunset, Tuscan Herb Walk, Sicilian Citrus Dream. We hit the Umbrian Forest Whispers and the Amalfi Twilight. The former is a heady concoction of prosciutto infused Woodford reserve whisky with a mixture of honeydew melon and Pechaud’s bitters all fat washed with porcini mushroom. It’s smokey and dusky and eminently quaffable. The latter is a lighter, breezier, more summery affair which mixes vodka with Aperol, strawberry and Amalfi lemon. A cherry tomato is shaken into the mix and the tall glass refreshment is accented with basil leaves.

As with most Italian menus, the choice is wide ranging and almost over-whelming, full as it is, of antipasti, zuppe, insalate, primi piatti, contorni, several different types of secondi as well as a whole page dedicated to pizza. The Parmigiana di Melanzane is a rich, filling starter. It’s warm comfort food, the type Italians do best; chunky aubergines swim in hearty tomato sauce and are covered in parmesan. Tris di tartare di tonno, salmone e ricciola is equally generous in portion but lighter, nonetheless. The tuna, salmon and yellowtail are served like small patties and come with a minimal of fuss; some greenery for garnishing and drizzles of oil but apart from that, little else, so that the fresh fish speaks for itself. 

For our mains, our waiter selects a light but dry red, a Corvina Verona.  Originating from Veneto, the grapes are harvested by hand and subjected to a crushing-destemming phase. Fermentation takes place at a temperature between 22 and 28 °C, with maceration for 8 days. The wine has a cherry aftertaste and works well with the Carré di agnello con purea di patate e carciofi fritti. The rack of lamb is sliced into smaller cutlets, and served rare in a mash of potato and a plentiful helping of gravy.  The Tagliatelle al tartufo nero is served in a colourful bowl as vibrant and bright as the tagliatelle itself which is rich and creamy and presented with generous slices of truffle. Special mention should go to the Zuchchini fritti (Contorni, side dish) which are crispy and salty and remind of a tastier, more textural string fry.

For dessert we eschew the obligatory tiramisu and opt for a Cannolo siciliano con gelato alla vaniglia and Bignè con gelato alla vanigliano, salsa al cioccolato e mandorle – Sicilian handmade cannolo and profiteroles, both with vanilla ice cream. The former comes with a paint stroke of chocolate and the latter with small streaks of chocolate and a bowl of almonds to sprinkle. Both come on colourful plates with bright lemons and healthy leaves and remind of Italy in the Summer.